Gasherbrum IV stands as the 17th highest peak globally and the 6th highest in Pakistan, nestled within the Gasherbrum mountain range. This remote cluster of peaks lies at the northeastern tip of the Baltoro Glacier within the Karakoram Range of the Himalayas. Within this massif are three of the world’s towering 8,000-meter peaks, with Gasherbrum often interpreted to signify “Shining Wall,” likely in reference to its prominent western facade. However, the term originates from the Balti language, where “Agatha” translates to “beautiful” and “Brum” to “mountain,” connoting its title as the “beautiful mountain.”
In 1958, Gasherbrum IV witnessed its inaugural ascent by Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri, scaling the Northeast Ridge under the leadership of Riccardo Cassin as part of an Italian expedition. Nearly three decades later, in 1985, Robert Schauer (Austria) and Wojciech Kurtyka (Poland) accomplished the first ascent of its towering west face, though adverse weather and exhaustion compelled them to halt their ascent at the north summit.
In 1986, the mountain saw its second ascent as Greg Child, Tim Macartney-Snape, and Tom Hargis conquered the Northwest Ridge. Then in 1997, a Korean team tackled the Central Spur of the West, with climbers Bang Jung-ho, Kim Tong-Kwan, and YooHuk-jae reaching the summit following a challenging ascent rated at 5.10 A3.
The year 1999 marked the second ascent of the Northwest Ridge by Kang Yeon-ryong and Yun Chi-won, among a larger Korean expedition. In 2008, a Spanish team comprising Alberto Iñurrategi, Juan Vallejo, José Carlos Tamayo, Mikel Zabalza, and Ferran Latorre made the third ascent of the Northwest Ridge, though they fell short of the main summit, stopping instead at a nearby minor peak.
| Departure/Return Location | International Airport, Islamabad |
| Departure Time | Mountain Range: Karakoram |
| Elevation: 7,925 | Best Time: Mid-May to End-August |
| Duration: 46 Days | Zone: Permited |
arrival at the airport and then transfer to hotel. Overnight stay in a hotel in Islamabad.
Early morning flight to Skardu (flights are subject to weather); if unable to fly, we will depart for Skardu by road with an overnight stay at Chilas. Overnight stay in a hotel at Skardu.
In case of flight has operated, we will go for a sightseeing tour of Skardu, and in case of no flight, the day will be used for overland travel from Chilas to Skardu (total drive is 22 – 24 hrs from Islamabad to Skardu). Overnight stay in a hotel at Skardu.
Sight seen in Skardu final packing for the Expedition.
After Breakfast, we will embark jeeps for a full day ride on a winding jeep trail to Askole – The last inhabitance on our way to the Great Glaciers. (Tent)
Trek to the Dumurdo river cross at Jhula (Jhula means wire Rope-Bridge supported by a wooden basket); now a day wooden bridge has been built to cross it. (Tent)
We will resume Trek along the Braldu River to a green oasis under the shadows of Paiju Peak 6611 M. (Tent)
Rest & acclimatization day at Paiju.(Tent)
Begin the Trek after an early breakfast. (Tent)
A long walk on the icy Baltoro Glacier. (Tent)
After Breakfast, Trek to Gasherbrum IV Base camp (Tent)
Climbing activities (Tent)
After Breakfast, we will resume walking on the Baltoro Glacier to a point called Concordia – a huge junction of Baltoro, Abruzzi & Godwin Austin Glaciers at 4000 meters. (Tent)
After an early breakfast, we will leave the Concordia for Ali Camp. (Tent)
A very early start, as early as 2 or 3 a.m., to cross the Gondogoro La to reach Khuspang.(Tent)
After a couple of minutes of easy walking, we will come onto the glacier. We will pick our way across moving boulders and ice, and finally, crossing the glacier up to the camping site, we will reach Shaicho. Walk: 06 – 07 hrs, Grade: Easy, Altitude: 3800 m. (Tent)
After Breakfast, we will continue walking along the Hushe River on an easy path. Upon arrival in Hushe, we will camp near the fields in Hushe village. (Tent)
After Breakfast, we will embark on jeeps for a full-day ride on a winding jeep road to Skardu. Upon arrival, Transfer to the hotel and check in. Overnight stay in a hotel at Skardu.
Early morning drive for Chilas. Upon arrival, Transfer to the hotel and check in. Overnight stay in a hotel at Chilas.
After Breakfast, we will depart for Islamabad via the Babusar pass. Upon arrival, Transfer to the hotel. Overnight stay in a hotel in Islamabad.
We will proceed with de-briefing at Alpine Club in Islamabad. Afternoon, we will go for a city tour of Islamabad. Overnight stay in a hotel in Islamabad.
Transfer to airport for flight back home.
Please Note: Gilgit Baltistan flights are subject to weather and backlog, in case of flight cancellation we will travel by road, and one night of Islamabad will be adjusted in overland travel.
Services included as following
Hotels:
Transport:
4 x 4 Jeeps:
Trekking Food:
Porters:
Staffs:
Camping Equipment:
Kitchen utensils:
General Services:
Services not included in given price