Chogolisa (7665m) stands as one of the most visually stunning peaks in the Karakoram range. Characterized by two summits linked by an elongated, nearly horizontal ridge, Chogolisa, despite its relatively gentle appearance, sees rare attempts or ascents.
Following the triumphant first ascent of Broad Peak in 1955, Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger embarked on an expedition to conquer Chogolisa. However, adverse weather conditions thwarted their efforts, compelling them to retreat. Tragically, during their descent, Hermann Buhl tragically lost his life after stepping onto a cornice, his body never recovered.
In 1958, a Japanese expedition successfully achieved the first ascent of the North-East summit (7654m). Subsequently, in 1975, the South-West Summit (7665m) was reached for the first time by Austrians G. Ammerer and F. Pressl.
| Departure/Return Location | International Airport, Islamabad |
| Departure Time | Mountain Range: Karakoram |
| Elevation: 7665m | Best Time: Mid-May to End-August |
| Duration: 45 Days | Zone: Permitted |
arrival at the airport and then transfer to hotel. Overnight stay in a hotel in Islamabad.
Early morning flight to Skardu (flights are subject to weather). If unable to fly, we will depart for Skardu by road with an overnight stay at Chilas. Overnight stay in a hotel at Skardu.
In case of flight has operated, we will go for a sightseeing tour of Skardu, and in case of no flight, the day will be used for overland travel from Chilas to Skardu (total drive is 22 – 24 hrs from Islamabad to Skardu). Overnight stay in a hotel at Skardu.
Sight seen in Skardu final packing for the Expedition.
After Breakfast, we will embark jeeps for a full day ride on a winding jeep trail to Askole – The last inhabitance on our way to the Great Glaciers. (Tent)
Trek to the Dumurdo river cross at Jhula (Jhula means wire Rope-Bridge supported by a wooden basket); now a day wooden bridge has been built to cross it. (Tent)
We will resume Trek along the BralduRiver to a green oasis under the shadows of Paiju Peak 6611 M. (Tent)
Rest & acclimatization day at Paiju.(Tent)
Begin the Trek after an early breakfast. (Tent)
A long walk on the icy Baltoro Glacier. (Tent)
After an early breakfast, we will resume a long walk on the Baltoro Glacier to a point called Concordia – a huge junction of Baltoro, Abruzzi & Godwin Austin Glaciers at 4000 meters. (Tent)
After Breakfast then trek to Chogholisa Base camp (Tent)
We have 24 days for acclimatization and for scaling the summit. (Tent)
After lunch, we will leave the Chogholisa base camp for Ali Camp. (Tent)
A very early start, as early as 2 or 3 a.m., to cross the Gondogoro La to reach Khuspang. (Tent)
After a couple of minutes of easy walking, we will come onto the glacier. We will pick our way across moving boulders and ice, and finally, crossing the glacier up to the camping site, we will reach Shaicho. Walk: 06 – 07 hrs, Grade: Easy, Altitude: 3800 m. (Tent)
After Breakfast, we will continue walking along the Hushe River on an easy path. Upon arrival in Hushe, we will camp near the fields in Hushe village. (Tent)
After Breakfast, we will embark on jeeps for a full-day ride on a winding jeep road to Skardu. Upon arrival, Transfer to the hotel and check in. Overnight stay in a hotel at Skardu.
Early morning drive for Chilas. Upon arrival, Transfer to the hotel and check in. Overnight stay in a hotel at Chilas.
After Breakfast, we will depart for Islamabad via the Babusar pass. Upon arrival, Transfer to the hotel. Overnight stay in a hotel in Islamabad.
We will proceed with de-briefing at Alpine Club in Islamabad. Afternoon, we will go for a city tour of Islamabad. Overnight stay in a hotel in Islamabad.
Transfer to airport for flight back home.
Please Note: Gilgit Baltistan flights are subject to weather and backlog, in case of flight cancellation we will travel by road, and one night of Islamabad will be adjusted in overland travel.
Services included as following
Hotels:
Transport:
4 X4 Jeeps:
Jeeps
Trekking and Base Camp Food:
Food (during the stay at base camp (we will serve breakfast, lunch, and Dinner)
Porters:
Carry on member’s climbing gear, foodstuff, camping crew, etc., up to base camp and return to the Jeep Roadhead. All porters insurance
Staff: Guide / Cook and assist cook wages, camp food, transport, and insurance
Camping Equipment:
Mess tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent mattress, chairs, Tables
Kitchen utensils:
Complete kitchen utensils (crockery)
General Services:
Services not included in the given price